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Belgian designer Tom Van Der Borght wins Yale Grand Prize – WWD

Paris — Belgian designer Tom Van Der Borght won the Premier Vision Grand Prix at the 35th Hyeres International Fashion Photography Festival on Sunday and is a judge led by JW Anderson founder and creative director designer Jonathan Anderson. Won. Loewe.

The Yale judges chose an already established designer, a departure from the recent tradition of rewarding graduates who have just graduated from school. Van Der Borght started fashion education at the age of 30 and founded the label in 2013 after graduating from Schone Kunsten Sint-Niklaas, a fashion school between Antwerp and his hometown of Ghent.

Impressed by the cocoon-like, intensely decorated menswear work, the 42-year-old man combines bright colors, psychedelic graphics and textures to call it the “true impact of the senses.” The collection, entitled “Seven Ways to Become a TVDB,” featured digital knits with dead stock merino wool, clear acrylic and lurex.

A model in a dress with transparent sequins and a mask covered with pointed protrusions and embroidered with a slogan such as “I’m not a monster” is a mask in a color similar to Van der Borg. The catwalk was carried by two attendants wearing masks.

“What really impressed us with Tom van der Borg’s work was that it was a commitment to a whole new type of shape, a new type of shape, a new type of silhouette and was uncompromising. “Anderson, who owns himself, challenged the standards of menswear, such as frilled trim shorts and lace coveralls.

“And at this moment we are, as a jury, we believe that this new decade was to start with a new, original idea. It’s because of its automatic commercial implications. It wasn’t about seeing anything in, “Anderson continued. “It was about fashion beauty, handmade, technique, and its risks. And I think Tom really did something with what he did. I think he will continue to do very well.”

The Premier Vision Grand Prix includes a € 20,000 grant and visibility during the Premier Vision Paris event. Van Der Borght will also be given the opportunity to undertake a project with a professional atelier managed by Chanel through its subsidiary Paraffection. The prize is up to 20,000 euros.

Designers who have also won a general vote for the collection will be invited to present their fashion show at the next Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Berlin and visit Swarovski’s headquarters and archives in Austria.

“I think I’m designing for a modern tribe in a non-normative city,” Van Der Borght told Metal in a recent interview. “I think TVDB is creating menswear that isn’t necessarily for men. It’s street couture, haute couture, too artistic, not fashion, too fashionable, not art.”

He was selected from 10 finalists by judges, including model Kaia Gerber. Amanda Harlek, a creative consultant. Photographer Tyler Mitchell; Sound designer Michelle Gobert. Actor Arnaud Valois; Stylist and creative consultant Benjamin Bruno. Creative director Ronnie Cook New House. Journalists Tim Blanks and Olivier Laranne. Derek Blasberg, director of fashion and beauty on YouTube. Olivier Gabe, director of the Museum of Decorative Arts, and Christoph Lampf, who won the grand prize at Yale last year.

In the third year, HEAD Geneva Fashion School graduates received the Chloe Award, a € 20,000 grant founded in 2012 by Fashion House, also a festival sponsor.

Marvin Mutumo, a French designer from Guadeloupe, said his Hyeres women’s clothing collection “Chien Fleur” was inspired by animal characters. At the Prix Chloé, he presented a look that combined a pleated shirt and pants with a matching bra that resembled a seashell.

A view from Marvin M’Toumo in Yale.
Provided by Etienne Tordewar / Hyeres International Fashion Photography Festival

“I could see this incredible hand in my pants and the attitude was great. There was some street but poetic,” Anderson said.

The Métiers d’Art Award in partnership with Chanel was presented to French designer Emma Bruski. Emma Bruski was impressed with the oversized straw earrings made in Remary. “They were great. Anderson, who founded the Loewe Craft Award in 2016, passed a really beautiful balance of wearable art and hands, craft and generational ideas, and we all wanted them,” he said. Did.

Bruschi received a € 20,000 grant to pursue a new creative project to be exhibited at the 2021 Festival.

As part of a sustainability master class hosted by Mercedes-Benz and Fashion Open Studios for fashion award finalists, Bruski was recognized as the best adopter of responsible practices in her work, and in 2021 Mercedes-Benz Will receive further showcase support from.

Earring design awarded by Emma Bruski at Yale.

Earring design awarded by Emma Bruski at Yale.
His Courtesy Hyeres International Fashion and Photography Festival

As part of a new partnership announced at the festival, Fashion Open Studios, a non-profit organization campaigning for a more sustainable luxury industry, has created an eco-sustainability roadmap to guide all Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week around the world. did.

The main accessory awards were given by French designers Ddiddue and Juana Etcheberry for baseball caps made from recycled plastic objects and also the Hermès Fashion Accessories Award.

“We loved their creative boldness and were amazed at their perception of the reality of the market. Chanel-owned embroiderer Lesage is the artistic director and head of the accessories jury. Hubert Barrère said:

The jury praised the trio of Antonin Mongin, Dimitri Zephir, and Florian Dach for picking up drags with human hair.

The Yale Festival has served as a foothold for designers, including Juli Andsena of Paco Rabanne. Victor & Rolf’s Victor Holsting and Rolf Snoelen, and Saint Laurent’s Anthony Vaccalello.

This year’s edition was postponed from April due to a coronavirus pandemic, most fashion judges were absent, and Anderson spoke with documentary maker Royce Prigent on Friday to offer an online masterclass. ..

Festival director Jean-Pierre Blanc is able to move forward despite many hygienic restrictions imposed by the French government to halt the new increase in reported cases of COVID-19. Said it was important.

“It was important to be able to compete for the work of 30 candidates, especially the work of artists, and to provide the audience with cultural, emotional and dream moments while respecting strict hygiene rules agreed upon by the authorities. Bran told WWD.

“The enthusiastic feedback from experts and the general public is encouraging,” he added.

Known for its family atmosphere, the event missed many of its regular attendees this year due to travel restrictions, but Bran still praised the finalists.

“They are enthusiastic, strong, and grumpy, and they are very adaptable. They have creativity and beauty, which makes them strong! They are our future.” He concluded.



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