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Charles de Vilmorin: Les Nouvelles Années Folles

Is Charles de Vilmorin likely to be the next big thing in French fashion? The omen is positive, and judging from the collection video he showed at haute couture in Paris on Wednesday night, he certainly has a design chop.

Barely 24 years old de Vilmorin’s birthday is Christmas Day. This is also a good sign. Designers rushed into the fashion filament when they were selected for the Gucci Fest this fall, and Count Dracula reinvented a video titled Repugnamtam, sweeping the young designer’s mini-festival.

What makes him doubly stand out is that de Vilmorin is a great illustrator in an era where many creative directors with hundreds of thousands of Instagram followers can barely draw like a potato digger. And he has a cool dark side, as seen at GucciFest, and in this collection he announced online on Wednesday.

Charles spray-painted his opening ideas in his latest video clip. Where the model has the best make-up – a canary yellow face. Green eyeshadow and blue lips. Their heads were adorned with grosgrain ribbons and swatches of mini chandeliers.

Two acrobatic spirits lifted a transparent black silk dress out of his one beauty, printing a fantastic jacket and pinafore all in Charles’ dramatic paintings.

With a shotgun in his hand, Couturier looks back a little and mock shoots two more women. One wears a fantastic floral gown, as if the statue of Niki de Saint Phalle suddenly revived. The other, like Reine Margot on the last days of Balloon Flock, begins sewing threads on the chest of fellow floral fabrics.

Young men appear in dragon-inspired quilted and hooded courtier jackets and surreal butterflies. Charles builds a 1 meter long fan with a stunning sketch of a naked Grand Guignol dancer.

Charles de Vilmorin-Haute Couture-Spring-Summer 2021-Photo: Charles de Vilmorin

“I like the fantasy of illustration. My references are people like Tim Burton. In my work, I like the idea that I don’t know if it’s human or devil,” Klimt said of symbolism. De Birmorin, who was influenced by other painters such as Odilon Redon and Picasso, says.

He recalls that Picasso’s quick sketched walls in newspapers and scraps of paper at his museum in the Marais “really surprised me, from which my monster was born.”

You have to give it to de Vilmorin-he has a peculiar vision. And a wonderful sense of color. And with the colors that appear in the collection, it’s a natural theatrical sensation, like a Brazilian parrot being blown into a video.

Before finishing his video pose – with red and gold face paint – before the cast of 14 beauties. A story about the birth of A Star Is Born.

It doesn’t hurt that Charles is Yves Saint Laurent’s Spitting Image. Creates a non-irritating similarity to Eve’s grandson, Birmorin, who is age-differenced.

“People have been saying this saying for years, especially when I was a teenager wearing a leather jacket like him. And I don’t really care about that portrait. It’s actually It doesn’t seem that bad to look like one of the true icons of fashion, “said de Vilmorin, who wore glasses while drinking coffee two days before the show video. laugh.

Born in Saint-Germain-en-Laye and raised in the local city of Compiegne, he originally wanted to be a theater director. I love the sound, the light, the combination of costumes, and the attitudes of the people who wear them. He wrote some early plays as a teenager. However, I started sketching at the age of five.

Charles de Vilmorin-Haute Couture-Spring-Summer 2021-Photo: Charles de Vilmorin

His father was the chief financial officer of a mass fashion brand and explained to him how industry ropes and dreams could become metiers. He finally enrolled in the Chambre Shinji Kale Fashion School when he was 18 years old.

“I wasn’t really interested in how to make the perfect seam to experiment with volume,” he thinks.

Apart from having a week-long summer internship with Lanvin of Alber Elbaz, he launched his brand after graduating from college.

“It wasn’t really planned. After completing my master’s degree, I was planning to study for six months of work, but when I finally went to see, there were internships in every house. So what? Also unplanned, so my people said they would find a job or go home, but dangerously, an individual collector bought most of my graduation collection and he bought them. I’m wearing a mess, so I stayed in Paris, “remembers this gentle, yet confident young man.

He hasn’t performed a runway show or presentation yet. But he starred in Gucci Fest. And now he is a genuine Parisian couturier. Meteoric is an understatement.

In short, his work is reminiscent of the energy and optimism of the Roaring Twenties when the West finally escaped the war, and the pandemic known as the Spanish flu.

“I wasn’t planning on throwing myself into couture, but I loved the idea of ​​a unique piece of craftsmanship,” said McQueen, Galliano, whose fashion heroes are all Anglo-Saxon. I’m Jacobs de Vilmorin.

Like a star born in fashion Bohemia, de Vilmorin doesn’t even have an apartment, living with friends in his favorite triangle, from Pigalle to opera to male.

“I like their idea of ​​telling a story in clothes. It makes everything more coherent, and I want the viewer to find a little bubble of positivism and fantasy,” says Charles. , Remove one of the wavy hairs from your face.

Like Eve.

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Charles de Vilmorin: Les Nouvelles Années Folles

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