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Ermenegildo Zegna subtly reconstructs the menswear wardrobe

Translated by

Robin driver


June 19, 2021

Zegna Zegna open Milan Fashion Week Mens On Friday, there is one of the most successful collections from Alessandro Sartori. The creative director of Peedmont-based luxury menswear label can focus more on fabrics, processing and manufacturing processes than ever before to build an elegant and wearable wardrobe while remaining highly sophisticated. It’s done.

2022 Summer Outlook-Zegna Zegna

Zegna again chose a video presentation this season, taking viewers through a hedge maze and a fast-paced journey to the lesser-known neighborhood of Milan built by. Aldo Rossi in the 1960s and 70s. Surrounded by this deserted and striking architectural landscape, the model, including twelve women, marched to the Open Plaza in the shadow of Dominique Perrault’s sloping tower on the outskirts of Milan. The video concludes that the model was seated at a long table set in the water of the fountain and was happy to toast the newly discovered freedom.

Without exception, the silhouette was monochrome, airy and smooth. The clothes, which looked intangible like clouds, easily floated on the model’s body. The long coat with a ribbon on the waist and the kimono-style jacket swelled almost unnoticed. The large overshirt emphasized the impression of lightness, not to mention the smooth matte calfskin shirt jacket that looks like it is made of cotton when viewed from a distance.

Shirts, blouses and oversized T-shirts were worn with shorts and loose trousers. This, like most outfits on the show, has a tone-on-tone look. When the shirt and jacket were pushed into the pants, the looks looked like a jumpsuit. This impression was accentuated by the comprehensive workwear aesthetic found throughout this free and functional collection of Spring / Summer 2022, as seen in various works with maxi pockets, for example.

Brand celebrates the resurrection of freedom-Zegna Zegna

Sartori continues to subtly reinterpret the classic tailoring, making it more casual yet luxurious, and after months of quarantine and telecommuting booms, new menswear uniforms that are more relevant than ever. Was born. “At this point, it’s probably easier to send a powerful new message,” the designer said.

“As the paradigm has changed, a modular wardrobe with multifunctional, light, wearable and comfortable items is definitely much more attractive now,” he said, actually pursuing this ideal for many seasons. The wardrobe that has been doing explained.

Zegna’s latest collection, called “The New Set,” wants to replace the blazer with a three-button linen jacket and break it all at once with traditional menswear cords. A suit and a white shirt are out. This new men’s wardrobe is built around four categories: new jackets or over-T-shirts, knitwear, new trousers with a new kind of wearability, and sports shoes.

The label doubled with a full-color look next summer-Ermenegildo Zegna

“The idea is to make all the pieces in the same color and process and match them as you like. That’s the theme of the collection,” said the designer, who divided the latest product into various chromatic modules. Explained. Pastel pink, sand, tobacco, off-white, blue, green. To make it even more comfortable, some polo shirts and trousers have been made with a new kind of knit.

“I used a mixture of linen and silk in the raw wool of sheep raised in Oashizeguna. Two years ago, such a material seemed impossible. I’m doing research on fabrics as well as design and craftsmanship. We are also considering knits. They will be important materials in the future as we can work on new structures. They are becoming fabrics that can be used to make dresses and trousers, “Sartri continued. It was.

The result is an aesthetically simplified collection, yet rich in details, elaborate finishes and new technical solutions. Here, the structure is king, and the garment is free from all the extras, including the lining and padding.

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Ermenegildo Zegna subtly reconstructs the menswear wardrobe

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