There, I met a Roman-born designer and asked about the latest inspiration for the Dior Cruise 2022 collection. Fashion female gods; create during covid. Her next haute couture plan is the first week of July. We will open a new pop-up this summer.
FashionNetwork.com: Where did you first come up with the idea of taking Dior to Greece?
Maria Grazia Chiuri: To be honest, it came from this very strong image of Mush Dior in the archive of these beautiful models under the 1951 Acropolis Caryatid. When I saw it, I knew immediately what to do this year. The photo is from 51 years, so I thought it might be a good idea to celebrate the anniversary in Greece. Planning this show was a daunting task, and I’m very happy that it was possible. It’s also a great opportunity to see our own references. I’m from Rome and my dad is from Puglia, so it’s part of this Magna Graecia culture. I studied from various perspectives when I was young, but now I am trying to make something different.
FNW: Did you go to Greece when you were young?
MGC: I often went to Greece for vacations. The first time I was 18 years old, I was with a friend. A typical trip when graduating from high school: We went around the islands. I saw archeology; and visited the Meteora Monastery. It was very exciting. She googles monastery shots on her iPhone.
FNW: Why did you include a reference to Marlene Dietrich?
MGC: I think she is very important in Dior’s history. I was fascinated because she found these images dressed as Leda mythical figures. An image that immediately realized that we had to work hard to realize Dior’s vision for this season. It was really cool! What was interesting to me was to think of this very soft dress compared to the idea of a couture like Dior, who has more architectural designers. These two languages are completely different.
That’s why I wanted to talk between these different visions of very interesting clothing. I tried to translate a reference to Mushu Dior, such as the houndstooth, into a Greek element. This was achieved with this local supplier and silk, and the result was ultra-lightweight. The idea was to show the dress with sneakers. Movement ideas, active women, a very good relationship between body and freedom. Now I think people need the concept of movement in these difficult times.
FNW: Joseph Campbell’s famous treatise, Goddess: I noticed that I was reading the mystery of the female god.
MGC: Yes, yes I’m completely crazy about him!for me Joseph Campbell is an incredible anthropological thinker and he is very smart. I really want to celebrate Mother Earth, the God of women.
FNW: But how do you interpret his ideas into clothes?
MGC: Think in terms of movement. If you think about it, fashion was, in a sense, a way to think of women as consumers. Where men make clothes that restrain women by restricting their movements, from high heels to very tight dresses.
FNW: I noticed that you are referencing Casa Iolas [a recent exhibition on gallerist and art collector Alexander Iolas]..How was this exhibition at a famous collector Will it affect the collection?
MGC: Yes, I like it. It was last winter in Milan, this beautiful building curated by Francesco Vezzoli. It’s incredible and he promotes metaphysical ideas. I am also a big fan of De Chirico and want to create the same atmosphere. This idea of metaphysics, where you see the shadow, but you don’t see the human figure very well. I think it’s beautiful.
FNW: How have you done so many shows and videos during Covid?
MGC: It was very hard to work during this time. It’s not easy for everyone. That will be the case until at least November.
FNW: I see [Dior CEO] Pietro Beccari has opened two stores on the Greek island of Mykonos to coincide with this show in Athens.
MGC: Haha, that’s his job. I’m doing another job, it’s his problem, and I don’t want to know anything about it. I work here. I have a private office and studio here on the Seine. You know I live now, I live in the moment. I actually live in front of the beautiful Luxembourg Gardens. But you know I don’t see much of my apartment. I spend so much time here!
FNW: Of course, the big designers of big houses are working hard.
MGC: Dior is a big machine.
FNW: Yeah, we need to power Dior’s machine.
MGC: No, a “Dior machine” means a great sense of responsibility. There are so many suppliers and people working in Dior that no one talks much about them. We are in a really difficult moment for many businesses, and for many of these ordinary people who worked really hard during this time. So I feel they are responsible. To be honest, I haven’t worked in my life like this year and a half. It’s been two weeks since I worked from 9am to 3am, but I never go home and have dinner.
FNW: It’s been a month since the season, can you tell us a little bit about couture?
MGC: That’s amazing, we show in the garden structure of the Rodin Museum above the fountain. After the couture show, there will be an exhibition of spaces. I’m so happy, it’s beautiful, it’s a completely new artwork with a new artist I’ve never worked with before.
More than 10,000 people visited last year after putting the set that Judy Chicago made for Dior for a few days. So this time I’ll leave the installation for a few weeks. We look forward to seeing you there.
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Maria Grazia Chiuri about Dior’s Metaphysical Mode Cruise Collection
Source link Maria Grazia Chiuri about Dior’s Metaphysical Mode Cruise Collection