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“Red Badge of Courage”: When a Female Big Wave Surfer Wipe Out And Come Back | Surfing

Media praise and respect for fellow groups for heroic big wave surfers like Page Alms, Keala Kennelly, Maya Gabeira, clashes with multiple stories of collapsing water affect the human body Suspect possible fatal damage.

The biggest threat to surfing has always been the risk of injury, nearly 70 times more common than deaths. In a rare world of truly big waves, the bigger the waves, the more danger they carry. When it comes to surfing, size really matters. Fellow surfers increase the risk factor, so when surfing on the biggest (and most dangerous) waves, with respect and caution, blatantly dangerous behavior is usually obscured. But not always.

For Jenny Euseldinger, there’s little doubt that one big day in the winter of 2006 caused the worst wipeout at Mavericks because of the fairly classic Alpha male behavior. It seemed.

“They bothered me,” she explained of several aggressive men. A fierce wave struck her. She raised her face with a paddle, but began to pitch again and again before reaching the top. After she broke through her back and actually got a glimpse of sunlight, other surfers, and the world beyond, the waves popped her tongue out and sucked her back. She returned to the shore, but her knee was injured and the next Not on the water for seven months-and her favorite 9-foot 4-fin big wave cannon shattered into pieces. Not surprisingly, her sponsorship has expanded from Roxy and Ocean & Earth to CTI Knee Braces and Try-Star Medical.

In 2013, Gabeira drowned in Nazaré, Portugal, as one of the most devastating annihilations ever seen. Attempting to claim the record for the largest wave a woman surfed, she was eaten up at the bottom of an estimated 84-foot beast and broke her ankle when she hit a third large bump while still on the board. Caught in a pair of waves, she lost consciousness.

“I lost her,” said Carlos Burle, a big wave rider who is her Brazilian Tow partner, in an interview. Stab magazine. “She was away for about five minutes. I finally saw her floating on her shore break. I jumped off the jet ski, grabbed her with an armlock and went straight to the beach. They immediately performed CPR and she started breathing. ”CPR saved her life, but she broke her right fi fi bone and had a lumbar disc hernia. Was waking up.

Kennelly will experience a similar tooth-skin-like catastrophe in Tahiti. Three days after riding the biggest and most dangerous barrel of the last decade at Teahupoo, she surfed the commemorative heat in honor of her best friend, world champion Andy Irons. She got out of a very dangerous tube and hit her face against Taupō’s infamous shallow reef. She later joked that the scar on her face was a “red badge of courage.” “I didn’t get the purple heart medal,” she laughed. Nevertheless, she needed reconstructive surgery and was a few inches away from the destroyed skull and the torn spinal cord.

However, these brave spirits had barely recovered when they returned to the field of slaughter.

Gabeira’s Recovery is an exciting story of resilience. Two years later, she returned to Nazareth, confronting the same monster that killed her, and continued to push the boundaries of women’s big wave surfing in search of the ultimate prize.

On January 18, 2018, Gabeira successfully surfed 68 feet of waves in Nazaré, becoming the first Guinness World Records female Big Wave surfer.

Kennery seemed to cure She The brutal damage of the accident is almost despised. “When KK was still in the IC unit, the first thing she said was’when can I come back?'” Bianca Valenti said in April 2020.

“Keira and Maya are very devoted and devoted,” Valenti continued. “Both may have died in an accident. Or stop. Instead, they stood up, completely overcame their fears, and won.”

“Red Badge of Courage”: When a Female Big Wave Surfer Wipe Out And Come Back | Surfing

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