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Surfing science: Dependent on weather, defined by the ocean – Honolulu, Hawaii – Honolulu, Hawaii

Honolulu, Hawaii 2021-07-28 05:10:51 –

Ichinomiya, Japan >> The debut of Olympic surfing reveals that these wave riders are, to be precise, minors in the sciences of climatology, meteorology and oceanography.

Serious Wave Tracker is an atmospheric science addict by default. This is because there are few, if any, sports defined by the ocean, which is literally a non-uniform stadium, depending on uncontrollable variables (weather).

Surfers are known for relentlessly studying both in detail.

“Whenever the wind blows:’Which direction is the wind?'” Said Owen Wright, 31, who is competing for the Australian team. “Just looking at the weather,’Oh, it’s sunny and sunny’ (wind) probably doesn’t just go offshore. There’s no such thing as” Oh, it’s raining. ” It always has to do with what surfing looks like. “”

At the Olympic Games, the organizers are preparing for at least three days of competition in eight days starting July 25th. The surf competition is based on the weather forecast, wave height, wind direction, tide movements and tide movements. Among other scientific data points, temperature.

“Everyone who enters the ocean, whether a surfer or not, is an amateur meteorologist and marine scientist,” said Kurt Corte, surfline chief forecaster and official Olympic surfing forecaster. I am. I.

But the numbers can provide that much information. Meteorological data is only part of the equation that evaluates what the mighty ocean brings. This can change from 30 minutes of heat to 30 minutes of heat in competition.

Waves are created by the way swells interact with the contours of the ocean floor. This is called a break. Beach breaks occur because sandbars move over time or due to storms such as the Olympic venues at Tsurusaki Beach.

In a nutshell, competitive surfing is about getting the most out of what the ocean brings and deciding what waves to take and what to do. Surfers need to be ready and continuously monitor the waves to best guess which wave to ride.

“How often do the waves come in? How many waves are there in the set? Which waves in the set provide the highest quality waves?”, Currently at the Surf School in Santa Cruz, California. .. Richard Schmidt, a retired professional surfer who runs it, said. “The first wave in the set tends to be a bit choppy, but the first wave in the set grooms the top, so the second and third waves are a little better. Look at the waves for a while. The quality is good. Understand where the waves first pick up “”

Surfline, a US-based surf prediction service, was essential to the decision of the International Surfing Association to make its Olympic debut at Tsurusaki Beach, 90 miles east of Tokyo. Surfline has been investigating local conditions since 2015 and now predicts that typhoons will cause big waves early in the competition.

Corte said he would go to the beach every day before sunrise at 4am to check and feel the situation. He advises ISA, Olympic governing bodies, and event manager officials. Calls to advance the contest will be made onsite daily around 7am.

Surfers may be the only ones excited to hear about the big storms, even though typhoons, hurricanes and tropical cyclones want to stay hundreds of miles offshore. They calculate where the storm hits and how fast it moves, reverse engineer it, predict how many miles away from a particular beach, and determine when those ripples reach the shore.

Given that Tsurigasaki is not generally known for its powerful waves, the current weather movements are a big victory for the Olympics. It’s a popular beach for surfing in Japan, but it’s not a world-class place like Hawaii or Tahiti. According to Corte, Trigger Saki usually provides the surfing conditions found on the North Carolina coast.

While many surfers have verbally expressed fear that their epic global debut will be delayed by mediocre waves, Corte has made the world’s best athletes such a beautiful and visually stunning sport. Reject the idea that you may be disappointed.

“They ride the wave that the average surfer may not even be able to surf and make it look incredible,” Corte said. “I think it’s a great opportunity to see surfing in any situation.”

Surfing science: weather dependent and defined by the ocean Source link Surfing science: weather dependent and defined by the ocean



Surfing science: Dependent on weather, defined by the ocean – Honolulu, Hawaii Source link Surfing science: Dependent on weather, defined by the ocean – Honolulu, Hawaii

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