The verdict on 6 new Atlanta restaurants: Birrieria Landeros, MikChan’s, The Usual, Pala, Bastone, and El Valle – Atlanta, Georgia

Atlanta, Georgia 2022-05-18 10:53:46 –

Billieria Landeros
In recent years, Atlanta has suffered from virria. Birria is a Mexican dish based on meat (usually beef or goat) stewed in tomato and chili sauce. Then as tacos (sides of cooking liquor, also known as consomme, for dipping), quesaviria (wrapped in tortillas with cheese and gridded to reddish golden, crispy, greasy, and glorious). Increasingly offered, some gonzo creations or others (birria ramen, biria pizza). This family-owned restaurant serves both tacos and quesaviria, but the home’s specialty, which is the reason for running rather than walking towards Duluth, is Vilia de Borrego. Birria of lamb made in the style of Aguascalientes, a state of Mexico with roots in the Randeros family. , And where previous generations ran restaurants. This heirloom recipe is nothing short of stunning. Finely chopped tender meat is served on a shallow plate of lightly spiced tomato broth, like velvet, and combined with regular trinkets (warm tortillas, onions, coriander, lime) for beer, Michelada, or restaurants. One of the homemade mango aguas fresca. My friendly young server asked if I wanted a meat-only bilria or a slightly fat-mixed bilria. Even with the latter option, the lamb was cooked very delicately, the sauce was very lively, and I felt like I had a light and refreshing lunch. In other words, I had plenty of room for a slice of Randelose’s very tasty Mexican cheesecake sprinkled with Dulce de leche. Also on the menu: tacos, torta, gorditas, and (on weekends) menudo. 2400 Satellite Boulevard, Duluth

Mik Chan’s
This EAV takeaway and delivery location is named after the little sons of owners Jen and Emily Chan. The quality of the food is poor, but the food has a childlike character. The design details of the dish itself, which is vibrant, irreverent and frankly a little nutty. For example, Sichuan hot dogs were topped with “taco beef gravy, Asian throws, fermented tofu sauce” and showered with a fair amount of fleet and coriander. It also has a sober taste. (The vegan version made with Beyond sausages tastes even better. Most menu items have a vegetable and gluten-free option here.) What else? The taco is modeled after Taco Bell’s crispy tacos Supreme, but uses grass-fed beef and Tyramook cheddar cheese. French dip filled with Mongolian beef. A bulgogi burger that isn’t always necessary, but is never harmed by the duck putty Schmia. (Who has been hurt by a little duck putty? Of course, besides the ducks.) Chan, who also runs Cabbagetown restaurant Jen Chan’s, moved to a space previously occupied by We Suki Suki of Quynh Trinh. Both of their dishes feel good, with the atmosphere of a cheerful community that is Trinh’s entire MO and the general bohemian nature of Flat Shoals. The only downside is that Mik Chan is currently only open until 8:30 pm. However, late-night service may be offshore for those who want to satisfy Munch. 479 Flat Shoals Avenue, East Atlanta Village

The usual
“Anything but” is a phrase that appears in connection with this Brookwood Hills facility. It’s on the website, Marquee above the bar, but it’s up to you whether the restaurant includes cheeseburgers and fried chicken sandwiches on the menu. And the wedge salad with blue cheese dressing can be said to be doing anything that has been removed from it in particular. .. .. You see. Still, it’s not shameful to be an easy eatery that plays some recognizable hits. The person in charge was Nick Lee Hee, who changed the French restaurant and wine bar on Brady Avenue (Aix and Tintin, respectively) on Brady Avenue to a more laid-back Westside during the pandemic. Similarly, Usual includes the aforementioned chicken sandwiches (juicy and generously divided pieces of meat, soaked in Korean hot sauce), sliders and smoke wings, and entries such as smoked short ribs on top of pimento. Glitz cake serving a little upscale cuisine. The dish called low country seafood and dumplings (Southern chicken and sea version of dumplings) was sticky, salty and not particularly flavorful, but of Lee Hee who was treated in Vietnam with Nuk Cham’s Vinegret sauce. Calamari is not recommended. Served with a great combination of flavor and texture on top of Thai basil, spicy peanuts, and crispy throws. The cocktails are thanks to the vibrant and rejuvenating peach tree fizz (a spectacular purple shade of gin infused with butterfly pea blossoms) and the rustic, autumn flavors of apples, vanilla and sorghum. Another highlight, such as one regular old fashioned. 1777 Peachtree Street, Brookwood Hills

“I feel like we’re in Italy!” The happy cafeteria said an hour’s lunch at Para. The credibility of this statement cannot be proven. It’s hard to remind Italy with the backhead strip mall, but it must have been music to Giovanni di Palma’s ears as he walked out of the kitchen and roamed the small shops. Shop and hold up with your customers. At this cafe, Dipalma leaves the home park complex, which includes most of his business (Geo’s Chicken Amalfitano, Antico Pizza Napoletana, etc.) due to the concept he launched in collaboration with his son Johnny. .. Pizza and gelato. Pain Ala Romana is a simple, pristine (tomato and mozzarella) to more dressed up (smoked salmon and dill, wild mushrooms) as a kind of mini pizza called Pinsa, sliced ​​whole (4-6 servings) by Dipalmas. And stratcha terra and truffle oil). The crust, which takes 72 hours to make, is not as complex as other long-fermented doughs, but its bread crumbs are wonderfully creamy and have a crisp bottom that is partially blackened. (Para refers to the bakery skin used to put these babies in and out of the oven.) The father and son duo are ciabatta sandwiches, fried zucchini flowers, salted cod fritters, and of course. We also offer sweets. Wild cherry gelato was actually a bit too sweet to suit my taste, but the flake-shaped shell-shaped Sfogliatella is one of the dreamy pastries, cinnamon and orange. I remember the scent of ricotta cheese left on my tongue. The dessert has disappeared. 1264 West Paces Ferry Road, Buckhead

Bass toneBass tone
There are some long-standing memes repeated by HL Menken, Dorothy Parker and more. Cellar door The most beautiful phrase in English. The runner-up is: Mozzarella.. Anyway, the idea behind this bustling new spot by chef Pat Pascarella (White Bull, Grana, photo below). Here, cheese is the star player, but there are also various other veterans of the Italian table (focaccia, salumi, homemade pasta) in it for a solid job. It’s also a good idea to start with Grande Gustazione. Literally, each item is a cheese flight that is a member of the Mozzarella family. Soil Mozzarella di Burrata, messy Burrata, Fat Mano — a cozy, hand-pulled, crunchy version of the dedicated station behind the Bastone bar. Having eaten 5 different cheeses, proceed to a lighter dish with bone marrow, pancetta, breaded orecchiette (rich, crunchy and wonderful) and glittering lamb tartare. Mint hazelnut pesto. There may be bad food here, but I couldn’t find it on my recent visit. Cooking is generally not a lean light, but it is served on a fairly small plate for biting and sharing. Other options include pasta such as frit mist, sunchoca caponata, lobster ravioli and broccoli, burrata, and lemon bucatini. To drink, in addition to the extensive menu of glass wines, there is an interesting cocktail made with a little pasta water. Aceof Clubs are especially like the delicate Dirty Martini, a drink whose delicacy is not known otherwise. Brewed in collaboration with Orpheus. 887 Howell Mill Road, West Side

El Valle
Restaurant owner Riccardo Ullio closed Mexico’s Cantina Escorpión early last year, but some of its DNA remains in the replacement restaurant. Two former employees, Luis Damian and Miguel Chavez, are currently helping to run the business. El Valle has abolished the Tex-Mex standard in favor of something a little more interesting, wrapping entrees such as blancino and caper with hoja santa leaves, short ribs of black garlic moles, and ribeye marinated in tamarind. increase. Seafood is especially popular here in small plates such as fried halibut tacos, halibut ceviche, and mussels in wahiyo sauce. Working together on the menu, Damian and executive chef Gabriel Camargo have created a dish with a powerful visual appeal. Dotted with bright orange segments of Clementine, surrounded by finely sliced ​​celery. Small flowers decorate the beautiful Sincronizada de Parpo: octopus quesadillas. Among the dishes I tasted, the taste was a little calm. For example, when I applied salsa verde over the quesadillas, the octopus was wonderfully soft, but as sparse as the floral garnish. Suppression of the dessert menu will pay off. “Decomposed Mexican S’more” features a rich, very rich, but slightly sweet chocolate mousse, along with warm churros and dramatic marshmallow swoosh. The “decomposed” sound like a gimmick that’s been a few years old, but set it aside and grab a spoon. Mexican and other Latin American wines are well represented on the drink list (many of which are available in glasses), and the cocktail menu emphasizes tequila and mezcal. 800 Peachtree Street, Midtown

Versions of this article appear in the May and June 2022 issues.

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