Life Style

Women deserve pockets-WSJ

Youn Yuh Jung Last weekend, her role in Minari made history as the first Korean actress to win an Oscar for Best Supporting Actress. At the age of 73, she seemed to do so entirely in her own words, repeatedly roasting Brad Pitt on stage and wearing an elegant and discreet brocade dress by Dubai-based designer Marmar Harim. , Generally warned that she mispronounced her name. She told stylist Alvin Goh: I want to be comfortable. Her gown, decisively, had a pocket. This is a rarer feature than expected in 2021.

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A popular wisdom among fashion designers is that pockets are an unnecessary luxury that breaks the line of dresses. Most evening wear for women avoids them. There are exceptions. Designer Pierpaolo Piccioli (man!) Can be considered the patron saint of pockets and has incorporated them into many of his masterpiece gowns in Valentino. Gemma Chan jumped to the top of all the best dress lists in the 2019 Oscar, wearing a hot pink frilled Valentino gown with pockets. This year’s best song candidate Laura Pausini wore a branded black silk and wool column with prominent pockets. Not surprisingly, all of these actresses were filmed on the red carpet with their hands in their pockets. Pockets are not only a practical place to hide your essentials, but also a comfortable and comfortable place to put your hands. They just feel good.

In 2019, Gemma Chan wore a dramatic pink Valentino gown with prominent pockets.


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Getty Images

Still, for women, pockets are still a privilege, not just evening wear. In her 2017 dissertation,Gender Pocket: Fashion and patriarchal anxiety about female consumers in selected Victorian literatureSamantha Fitch argued that the history of sexist repression was behind the lack of pockets. Without pockets, women traditionally relied on men for necessities like money. Fitch writes: “In general, women’s pockets are smaller, fewer, or simply non-existent than men’s pockets. Perhaps in the worst case, women find that their pockets are actually fake pockets. Is often. “

Laura Pausini’s Valentino gown at this year’s Oscar offered plenty of opportunities to take pictures of the red carpet in your pocket.


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Getty Images

Even young girls are plagued by these exciting fake pockets. In April, seven-year-old Kamryn Gardner in Bentonville, Ark, made a headline in a letter sent to Old Navy, demanding a real pocket for a girl’s jeans. In her much talked-about letter, it says: “I don’t like the front pockets of girls’ jeans being fake. I want front pockets because I want to put my hands in them. I also want to put things in them.” The Old Navy team representative encouraged and reacted. However, Kamlin appeared in NPR and other national media outlets to make her claim.

First graders joined a choir of girls and women begging for pockets on social media.This week

twitter

agiteur @OhNoSheTwitnt “I’m a simple gal. I just want what every woman wants. Respect, a flock of trained wolves, death to patriarchy, and real pockets of all dresses and trousers.”

If there is a general demand for pockets, what exactly is preventing designers from adding pockets? Indeed, we have overcome Victorian resistance to having women carry money. However, concerns about the bulkiness of pockets have continued since 1795, when neoclassical Parisian fashion was streamlined and revealed more female bodies. In a 2010 essay, Shapes and Malformations: Victorian Pocket Problems, Christopher Todd Matthews wrote, “Sewn pockets on such dresses destroyed the shape of this new” naturalized “woman. Probably. “

Even now, more than 100 years later, the fashion industry often still has pockets. Perhaps our most famous and talented female designer, Miuccia Prada is the master of skirts, the garment celebrated at Prada’s first traveling exhibition, “West Down,” in 2004. I own some of her beautiful full skirts from different eras. There are no pockets.

A pair of vegan leather pocket pants from the Kallmeyer lookbook.


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KALLMEYER pocket KALLMEYER

But in addition to Valentino’s Pitcholi, some leading designers have integrated their pockets into their designs. Daniella Kallmeyer, a New York-based brand Kallmeyer, told me over the phone that her philosophy “clothes should be practical as well as beautiful.” Looking around the Lower East Side boutiques, it was estimated that 19 of the 20 styles had pockets. This includes navy silk cocktail dresses, part-linen jumpsuits, and stiff high-waisted trousers. “Our evening dresses also have pockets, because even if a woman looks like a woman, she should feel cool and confident.”

For Karmayer, that confidence is partly an attitude. When designing, she asks herself. How does she stand when talking to someone in it? Part of the process of tailoring Karmayer’s trousers is to put your hand on the pocket pattern so that it fits. When she creates a back pocket, she checks to see if the phone fits in it. Oh yeah, mobile phones: a modern life and business essential that fits in the pockets of very few women. With the introduction of the larger iPhone 6 in 2014, Atlantic Piece of thought About the gender imbalance of pocket design.

When women do not have storage pockets, they are forced to carry everything in their purses. But even stubborn purses like Queen Elizabeth II crave for peace. The Queen’s longtime dresser, Angela Kelly, explained in her 2019 book “The Other Side of the Coin: Queen, Dresser, Wardrobe” that the monarch “takes more informally and gives freedom.” I had a long-standing desire to get it. For example, put your hand in your pocket and pose. So, a photo shoot with photographer Barry Jeffrey was arranged, and the resulting photo shows a standing queen in a white knee-length dress laughing with her hands in her pockets. Ms. Kelly argued that some of the Queen’s camps were worried that casual photography would “break the monarchy.” This is the power of the pocket.

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Women deserve pockets-WSJ

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