However, a word about oxygen. The device essentially pumps pure air (79 percent nitrogen, 20 percent oxygen) into the coffee instead of bothering with nitro cartridges. This is cool, but exposure to oxygen is the enemy of fresh coffee. After the nitro evaporated, a side-by-side taste test revealed a more flabby oxidation taste on the nitro than on the base non-nitro. But fresh from the machine, it doesn’t look like much. Do you notice the bracing, pleasant bubbles that also add sweetness. The bubbles cover a multitude of sins, building a dense head atop a cold brew that looks for all the world like a well-poured Irishman. WIRED editors, seeing photos of Cumulus’ abundant nitro, suspected chicanery. “I swear they use Guinness for their promo shots,” she wrote. Espresso is also effervescent-given a thick and original cream, formed through the pressure exerted by the device’s powerful compressor. It is the natural frothiness of Cumulus espresso itself that led to my handsomely foamy martini-results that eluded me with hot chilled espresso. A strong hat tip to cocktail consultant and educator Josh Seaburg, of Virginia Model Citizen Cocktails, for a good espresso. martini recipe to try this stuff. For the record, this includes 1.5 ounces of vodka, 0.75 ounces of coffee liqueur such as Mr. Black, and half an ounce of simple syrup, mixed with an ounce of cold espresso. Mix, shake, pour. The device only makes two shots, so one capsule provides enough cold espresso for two cocktails. Who is Cumulus for? On one hand, Cumulus is an impressive piece of engineering—one that succeeds in many aspects where other device manufacturers fail. But not a device for coffee snobs. It is better for those who like their Keurig and are not fussy, or those who naturally have milk and sugar or other flavors. Cumulus doubles with flavored syrups from Orange Piloncillo to Cinnamon Demerara. Photo: Cumulus
